Last Updated on January 24, 2023
A wonderful weekend in Mexico’s San Miguel de Allende…
Estimated reading time: 6 minutes
By Jim Ferri
One morning in Mexico, I woke up in a little bed and breakfast and couldn’t wait to get outside.
It wasn’t that the place was bad. I had a nice comfortable room. But I knew I’d be in Mexico’s San Miguel de Allende only a short time and there were many things to do and see in this wonderful city. Plus I always enjoyed seeing places early in the morning.
It was ironic because I almost didn’t get the room. My friend Greg and I made last-minute plans to visit San Miguel, one of the top places not far from Mexico City. But we found all the good hotels in the Old Center were full. That included the Posada Corazon B&B, my first choice.
Greg had the idea to call his friend Marina who runs a small business in San Miguel. He wondered if, perhaps, she could somehow help us find some place to stay. Hopefully, it wouldn’t be too far out in the outskirts.
In no time at all Marina had us a room at the Corazon. It was quite a feat since it was a very busy weekend and the place only has six rooms.
San Miguel de Allende: A Sleepy Little Mexican Town
Slipping out of the Posada into the morning light, I began wandering about the town that’s only a three-hour drive from Mexico City. I wanted to find out why so many people rave about this colonial hill town
Soon I realized that San Miguel is one of those proverbial sleepy little Mexican towns. In other words, it hadn’t quite come awake yet. There was no one on any street except one restaurant owner out sweeping his entrance.
I walked over to the little town square. There I found a little manicured park, shops and the parish church, which has become a symbol of the city.
As I roamed about the changing morning light began its dance on the multi-colored walls of buildings all around me. I slowly began to be seduced by it.
Breakfast in the Garden
After a while I returned to the Corazon and met Greg for breakfast. It was a great, huge breakfast, all homemade and organic and I left so full I couldn’t believe it.
Our table was on a terrace, shaded by a large tree. In front of us was a beautiful garden, with a fountain and pieces of sculpture. Along one wall the steeple of the church peeked into the garden over a blaze of cascading bougainvillea.
Although breakfast was included in the price of the room (it was, after all, a B&B), even those who walked in off the street paid only 150 pesos ($11).
A Spontaneous Tour of San Miguel de Allende
Greg and I then set out, with him as my tour guide. He brought me all over town, and we poked into everything we stumbled upon, and I enjoyed the spontaneous nature of it all.
It was almost a touristic wantonness, just wandering about wherever our eyes and feet would take us — into old hotels to explore lobbies and courtyards, down myriad little streets to see this or that, all of it always good fodder for the traveler’s mind and soul.
Along one street we found a kid running along banging an iron triangle, signaling everyone to bring out their garbage since the trash truck was not far behind.
As if on cue, everyone stepped out of their doorways and waited on the sidewalk, bringing life to the otherwise deserted way.
It was more of a social gathering than anything else as people stop chatting with each other while awaiting the truck.
From the Park to the Market
Further on, In Park Juarez, we came across five kids whom seemed to be practicing for the local marching band, and not far beyond a few artists selling their little colorful creations, most depicting one facet or another of the town about us.
Not long after exiting the park we came upon a public wash area where women, all colorfully dressed, were doing laundry. There are several of them still in use around the town, Greg told me.
It was Saturday and early in the afternoon we wound up at the organic farmer´s market, nestled between the Instituto Allende and the Rosewood Artesana Hotel, where you could buy everything from fruit, vegetables, bread and food (cooked and served on the spot), to organic face crèmes, potholders and any number of other things. Judging from the crowd, it was evident the market is popular with the expat community.
Also popular with them is San Miguel’s art community. Greg knew several expat artists and told me that many of them who have settled here donate the proceeds of their sales to local charities.
No doubt these artists regale in the almost magical quality of the light here, and as I looked out at the purple-crowned Jacaranda trees dotting the hillsides and the city, it seemed as if someone had daubed a purple brush all over a magnificent urban canvas…just the thing to nurture anyone’s inner Monet.
You may also enjoy: The Top 10 Places in Mexico / 5 Great Day Trips from Mexico City / Things to Do in Oaxaca, Mexico’s Magical City
If you go:
Posada Corazon
Aldama 9, Centro
San Miguel de Allende
Guanajuato, Mexico 37700
(415) 152.0182 (Mexico)
(866) 278-2279 (US)
http://www.posadacorazon.com.mx/
Stan McGahey says
We all need to see the world-famous sights; we feel cheated if we go somewhere and miss them. But nothing beats visiting a picturesque, traditional village as it goes about its daily life. Just be a fly on the wall, a friendly participant, or an appreciative, and unobtrusive bystander, and you can experience the genuine interaction of the local people. That’s what travel memories are made of, and they can be found on day-trips from major cities or a fun overnight en route to your next destination. This story was a great example.
Billy Smith says
My wife and I are looking to retire in San Miguel. Dr allende. Could u advise me on places to rent long term. Thanks.
Jim Ferri says
Billy,
I don’t know of any. Have you been in contact with the tourism people of San Miguel or the mayor’s office?
Jim
Pedro says
I have a place on Airbnb. We could work a long term deal out
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/51538405?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=ee692589-5807-40ee-ba06-7789398d74ce
John Sallee says
My fiance and I are moving there 10 -2022. I hate leaving my home town of Ventura Ca, but alas real estate here, both rentals and homes for sale is getting out of hand.
She once lived there and owned a small boutique, so I have someone to show me the ropes. Can’t wait!!
Jim Ferri says
Hi John,
I think you’ll love San Miguel de Allende. It’s a special place for many people. And it also has a large expat community.
Jim
Cheryl Herrera says
San Miguel is definitely on my list. This spring is Chiapas. I’m hoping for San Miguel later this year or early next. Can’t wait.
Jim Ferri says
Hi Cheryl,
I think you’ll love San Miguel. Most people do. Try to go out for a walk about town in early morning and watch it come alive.
Jim