Driving in Montana, we had just passed through Great Falls en route to Fort Benton, MT, about a 40-minute drive north. I remember thinking, “It’s no wonder they call this ‘Big Sky Country’.”
Growing up in the East and never having been to Montana, I found the drive amazing. The two-lane road sliced across a seemingly endless flat plain crowned with the most extensive and bluest sky I could ever envision.
As we sped along, I wondered what a foreign traveler, from Europe or Asia perhaps, would think upon seeing the vastness of this land where there is nothing but open space as far as you can see.
We sped along, following the road that soon hooked southeast towards the Missouri River. Within minutes, we were in the town of Fort Benton and would quickly be in the historic fort that gave it its name.
On the banks of the Missouri River, it’s also the oldest continuously occupied settlement in the state. As the “birthplace of Montana,” it gained fame for being the most navigable up-river port on the Missouri River. In fact, it was the “world’s most innermost port” until the advent of the railroads.
Riverport or not, little Fort Benton has an essential spot in history. It was at the forefront of opening the U.S. Northwest and western Canada to settlement and responsible for much of the region’s history. That’s one of the reasons it’s such an exciting destination for travelers.
Fort Benton became an important town after the discovery of gold in present-day Montana and Idaho. Its economy boomed as steamboats brought goods, settlers, and gold miners.
As often happens, the boats also brought fortune seekers, outlaws, madams, and others. Many of them gravitated to the more than a dozen saloons, gambling houses, dance halls, and brothels on Front Street. In fact, the stretch of Front Street between 15th and 16th soon became known as the “bloodiest block in the West” due to the violence that ensued.
The interior of the historic fort / photo: Jim Ferri
A Historic Fort
Outside the present-day Town of Fort Benton, MT, Fort Benton is now a National Historic Landmark. It was honored for its importance in opening the American West to settlement and development.
Built in 1847, it initially gained fame as a trading post and fur-trading fort, the last on the Upper Missouri. However, it was abandoned only 34 years after its sun-dried adobe bricks succumbed to the ravages of Montana’s weather. Coincidentally, that was also when the Missouri steamboats succumbed to the growth of the railroads.
The fort was the terminus of the 642-mile Mullan Wagon Road, the first wagon road to cross the Rocky Mountains. It was the link between Fort Benton on the Missouri River and Walla Walla, Washington, on the Colombia River, which flowed to the Pacific Ocean.
Once in near ruin, historic Fort Benton has been rebuilt by the non-profit River & Plains Society. It is part of their Heritage Complex and Museums in Fort Benton today.
The trade store / photo: Jim Ferri
The Fort Benton Trade Store
When we arrived at the fort, we met Kirby Hoon, who was to be our guide for our short visit. Before our visit, neither my husband nor I knew anything about the place other than that it’s considered the birthplace of Montana. But affable Kirby turned out to be a font of information.
Hoon was charming and highly knowledgeable of the area and its colorful history. He was also well-read and highly educated and knew much about the history of the area and its early settlers.
Our first stop was at the fort’s trade store. There, Kirby told us about the traders, Indians, and early settlers and what life was like then in Fort Benton, MT.
The store has been recreated to look as it did in its early days. Skins are draped over the counter, large barrels of provisions are standing on end, various goods for sale on the shelves and walls, etc., all giving a feel for what the outpost looked like years ago.
An anteroom with a window allowed traders to keep guns trained on Indians who entered the fort to barter.
A sign on one wall gave a recipe for creating “Trade Whiskey”: “mix 2 gallons of Missouri River water, 1 quart of alcohol, 1 twist of rank black chewing tobacco, 1 handful of red peppers, 1 bottle of Jamaican ginger and 1 cup of black molasses. Mix well until strength is drawn from the tobacco and peppers.”
The fort’s fascinating exhibits / photo: Jim Ferri
Fort Benton’s Fascinating Exhibits
After the Trade Store, we continued to the fort’s warehouses. They’ve been converted into small museums with interesting art, both sculptures and paintings, which depicted Indian life. It showed the Blackfoot Indians, the predominant native-American group in the area (who were, explained Kirby, adept horse thieves and one of the first native Americans to have horses in this part of the world), their way of life and the hardships they had to endure.
Along with the exhibits, Kirby’s description of the history, events, and living conditions on the banks of the Missouri provided a fascinating insight into the people and place of the time.
One other mini-museum was an agricultural exhibit that showed the evolution of farm machinery. Another depicted the lives of pioneer women and the tools and instruments they used daily.
The Hornaday Buffalo exhibit / photo: Jim Ferri
Museum of the Northern Great Plains
A great museum you should try to see in Fort Benton, MT is the Museum of the Northern Great Plains. It documents the last 100 years of life on the vast Montana plains and is eye-opening for children and adults. One of its treasures is the Hornaday Buffalo exhibit, considered the world’s most significant collection of animals.
The animals in the exhibit were collected in 1886 by conservationist William Temple Hornaday at the Smithsonian’s request. The collection came from the last wild U.S. buffalo herd so future generations could see what man had destroyed.
The exhibit of six animals was displayed in the Smithsonian for 70 years before being put into storage and forgotten. Today, they stand in this Fort Benton museum almost exactly as they did at the Smithsonian. It’s a beautiful display.
Hornaday, by the way, is widely credited with helping to save the buffalo from complete extinction. In fact, the buffalo image seen on U.S. coins was drawn from the great bull in the exhibit, as was the Great Seal of the Department of the Interior and the National Park Service badge.
Missouri Breaks Interpretive Center / photo: Jim Ferri
The National Monument is a 149-mile stretch of the Missouri River designated as “wild and scenic.” The designation protects and ensures it remains as Lewis and Clark first saw it. The” Breaks” are the rugged valleys, ravines, and badlands surrounding the river.
We were lucky enough to be able to speak with Connie Jacobs, the manager of the center. Jacobs was rightfully proud that back in 2013, the Missouri Breaks had been designated by National Geographic Traveler as one of the 20 best places in the world to visit that year.
While we didn’t make it out to the river, we did enjoy our time in the Interpretive Center. We became immersed in hands-on exhibits about the land and the area’s wildlife and culture.
We also saw the rifle of Nez Perce Indian Chief Joseph and later stepped inside a replica steamboat pilothouse. Most impressive was the life-size replica of the huge Murphy wagons. The Murphys pulled the freight brought to Fort Benton by riverboats to the far-flung reaches of the Territory.
Much of the area in the National Monument is inaccessible by road. That makes multi-day canoe and float trips (booked through local outfitters if you’d rather not go alone) quite popular.
Making your trip on the Missouri River a bit easier today is the fact that you go with the river’s flow, not against it, as Lewis and Clark had to do many years ago.
Signal Point Golf Club, Fort Benton / photo: Signal Point
Outdoor Activities Near Fort Benton
Because of its history as a trading post and its role in opening the American West to development, Fort Benton, MT is of interest to history buffs. (Even if you’re not interested in history, don’t miss the Museum of the Northern Great Plains.) But there’s more to the town and area than only historical sites.
Fort Benton is uniquely connected to the river and nature, with the Missouri River running through town. The Missouri Breaks and the surrounding areas are also a haven for those who love the outdoors, including hikers, fishermen, and photographers.
The solitude and beauty of much of the area lure canoeists to its waters. If you’re one of those lured into town, you’ll find outfitters and guides for canoe trips throughout the region. Check with the visitors center at the Fort Benton Chamber of Commerce for outfitters and guides. It’s on Front Street adjacent to the Walking Bridge.
If you’d rather play a round of golf, head for 9-hole Signal Point atop the bluffs along the Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic River. The views are fantastic, and there is also a driving range and putting and chipping greens.
Local Events
If you’re visiting Fort Benton, MT in early summer, you can time your visit to attend” Montana’s Premiere Smalltown Festival,” the Fort Benton Summer Celebration. The Chouteau County Fair is held in August, but you’ll need to check with the visitors center for the date, as you will also have to do for the Fishing Derby held in spring. The visitors center should also be able to provide information on ongoing cultural events held throughout Chouteau County.
Grand Union Hotel, Fort Benton / photo: Montana Office of Tourism
Accommodations and Lodging
Since Fort Benton, MT is a relatively small town, accommodations are limited. You can, however, see a complete list of hotels, bed and breakfasts, and RV parks and campgrounds on Fort Benton’s official website. Be aware that some accommodations may be seasonal.
Best Restaurants
Since Fort Benton is a small town, you will not find many restaurants. The Top 3, according to Yelp, are Union Grille Restaurant, Wake Cup Coffee House, and Banque Club. As one might suspect, numerous fast-food restaurants are scattered about town.
How to Get To Fort Benton
Fort Benton, MT is easily reached by car from Great Falls (a 40-minute drive via US87) or Helena (about 2 hours via I-15 N and US-87 N).
If you’re flying, the nearest airport to Fort Benton is Great Falls (GTF) Airport, approximately 40 miles away.
Where did you stay? No pictures of the river boat next to the road. The history walking down the sidewalk. What about Shep?
Hi Craig,
We were on our way to Glacier and Yellowstone and the Montana tourism folks asked us to come visit Fort Benton.
Jim