Last Updated on January 4, 2025
We knew there’d be some great music as we cruised down the lower Mississippi River from Memphis on one of American Cruise Lines new, modern riverboats. We didn’t, however, expect the Southern food and hospitality to be so good. Nor as Canadians, to appreciate American history and culture so much.
The music began as soon as we entered the Memphis airport shuttle bus. The unmistakable voice of Elvis Presley singing “Love Me Tender” drifted down the aisle from hidden speakers. Then the bus Shaked, Rattled, and Rolled as it took us to the Guest House at Graceland, a four-star, 450-room hotel adjacent to Elvis’ Graceland mansion.
American Cruise Lines offers guests an optional two-night stay at the comfortable Guest House. It includes free access to the mansion and the separate, vast collection of Presley airplanes, cars, motorcycles, costumes, and gold records. We could see why the Graceland complex is the most visited private home in the United States.
Leaving the Guest House, the cruise line took us on a bus tour of Memphis, with stops at Beale Street (home of the Blues), Sun Records (where Elvis made his first recordings), and the Lorraine Motel (now part of the National Civil Rights Museum), where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., was assassinated in 1968.
We felt a strong sense of sadness as we gazed at the balcony of Room 306 where King lost his life.
The American Melody On A Mississippi Cruise
Our first glance of our riverboat on which we would be cruising the southern Mississippi River was from atop a levee in Memphis. We headed down the steep ramp to board the American Melody through its unusual flipped-up bow. Riverboats on the Mississippi River have a unique challenge, we learned. With flood-control levees all along the Mississippi, American Cruise Lines carry golf carts to help older adults and the infirm safely navigate the challenging slopes.
In 2018, American Cruise Lines, the largest river and small-ship cruise line in the United States, introduced the first modern riverboats in North America. American Melody was built in Maryland in 2021 with a maximum capacity of just 175 guests. Its average room size is 350 square feet, although our “Veranda Suite” was 405 square feet. It felt like a spacious hotel room.
A Comfortable Ship
We particularly appreciated the Melody’s comfortable, king-size bed and luxurious sheets and pillows. There were plenty of power and electric outlets, high-quality internet, and much more drawer space than we’d ever need. There was also efficient temperature control, a 50-inch TV, and a large bathroom with soft, fluffy towels and two separate nozzles in the shower. We weren’t surprised when we were told that the ACL fleet of 20 riverboats operates in 35 states. It also has the largest average guest rooms of any cruise line.
With the failure of competitor American Queen Voyages, the Viking Mississippi is the only current competition for American Cruise Lines on the second longest river in the U.S. (the Missouri is about 100 miles longer). This cruise ship is much larger than the ACL boats, accommodating up to 386 guests
The Hotel Manager on American Melody told us the smaller ships of his company are better suited for cruising the southern Mississippi River. The reason, he explained, was that occasional low water levels can prevent the bigger draft of large boats from operating. American Cruise Lines riverboats have never missed a scheduled sailing due to water depth.
Off Down River to Cruise the Mississippi
Finally heading downriver with a full passenger load (mostly Americans but with a smattering of Canadians, Brits, and Australians), we were impressed with the layout of American Melody. Its four-story atrium and public rooms never seemed crowded. On Deck 3 forward, the large bright River Lounge was used for port briefings, trivia, excellent enrichment lectures, and entertainment.
The smaller indoor/outdoor Sky Lounge at the back of Deck 4 was a snacker’s dream, offering freshly baked cookies, 24-hour snacks, a wide selection of drinks, excellent coffee, and made-to-order breakfast sandwiches.
Plenty of loungers and a wrap-around walking track were available on the full-length top deck so guests could enjoy the passing scenery, including heavily laden barges pushed by strangely named tow boats, semi-tropical vegetation, and small communities. When we reached Baton Rouge, heavy industry tended to dominate the shoreline.
Wonderful Meals
Meals were a special treat on American Melody. As expected on a Mississippi River cruise, Southern U.S. dishes were emphasized, especially Creole, Cajun, and even a noontime pig roast. We loved our cornmeal-crusted catfish with collard greens, Gulf Coast Blue Crabcakes, Sea Bass with Sauteed Crawfish, and Jambalaya. The fish was delicious, and the Hotel Manager told us all the seafood was fresh and never frozen.
All dishes are available in half portions. Lunch and dinner included complimentary wine, beer, spirits, and a good selection of non-alcohol beer and wine. In the evening, white tablecloths graced the tables.
The serving staff on American Melody was young and energetic. All staff must be American according to U.S. law because ACL riverboats do not visit foreign countries.
Although friendly and well-meaning, we found the restaurant staff less efficient and well-trained than the primarily Filipino and Indonesian staff on international river, lake, and ocean ships.
Hotel Manager Glenn Taylor told us that while his staff may not be as polished as the international competition, they’re always pleasant and accommodating. He added that this is often the first full-time job for young servers. And he’s delighted that so many have used the riverboat experience as a stepping stone to a career in hospitality.
Impressive Entertainment, Outstanding Tours
We were impressed with the quality of evening entertainment on American Melody. In fact, the talented performers were better than the musical acts we’ve enjoyed on many European river cruises. Our favorites included Mississippi Marshall, a master of the Blues who played a mean guitar (we bought his CD), Chris Gill and the Sole Shakers (a three-man band with a female vocalist), and the Banjo Cats, a husband-and-wife team who have mastered several instruments.
Most of the tours on our Southern Mississippi river cruise were outstanding. Who knew that tiny Cleveland, Mississippi, is the home of the impressive Grammy Museum? It highlights the amazing musical talent in southern states and around the Mississippi Delta.
In Vicksburg we visited a private Civil War museum with its huge collection of artifacts from that troubled time. We also spent time in the unusual Coca-Cola Museum in the building where Coke was first bottled in the U.S.
In Vidalia, Louisiana, we visited a cotton plantation, where we were able to hand-pick some fluffy cotton. We also explored a historic cotton gin. There we observed the process of cleaning and bundling 500-pound bales for transport in a modern cotton gin.
Along the way, we also visited several southern antebellum mansions that resembled a scene from Gone With the Wind. Standouts were The Myrtles in St. Francisville, Louisiana, and Oak Alley in Vacherie, Louisiana.
A State Capital and Plentiful Bayous
Our highlight in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, was visiting the capital building that dominates the skyline. At 450 feet, it’s the tallest state capital in the United States. The panoramic view of the city and meandering Mississippi from its observation deck is spectacular. Built in the early 30s during the Depression, it was a project masterminded by controversial Governor and then Senator Huey Long. He was assassinated inside the building in 1935, where there’s now a memorial. We ended the day relaxing on our balcony, admiring a magical pastel sunset.
Louisiana is well known for its plentiful bayous and slow-moving marshy waterways. On our last day aboard American Melody, we signed up for a southern Mississippi River cruise tour called “Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure.” Adventure indeed! Aboard a 40-passenger, flat-bottom aluminum boat, our captain took us through the narrow bayous, where alligators were plentiful, either lounging on the shoreline or swimming alongside us (our captain even fed a few without losing his hand). In addition, we met many playful raccoons and a family of not-so-playful wild hogs.
Changing Demographics
As told to us by the personable and efficient Cruise Director, Colin Hietikko, the guest mix aboard American Melody was interesting. Hietikko explained that that many of his American guests had traveled the world in their younger years. Now, however, many wanted to stay closer to home with something safe and accessible. Older couples were certainly the prime demographic on our cruise, with an average age of over 70.
But that demographic was slowly changing, explained Glenn Taylor, the hotel manager, as the modern, all-inclusive riverboats in the American Cruise Lines fleet were beginning to attract more young people. That, along with fascinating itineraries, is a recipe for continued success.
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