Last Updated on April 4, 2024
Estimated reading time: 13 minutes
Updated for 2024
If you’re looking for things to do in Memphis leave yourself plenty of time time. In addition to the sights, there’s delicious barbecue, and music. Lots and lots of music…
By Jim Ferri
If you’re looking for things to do in Memphis you should meet my nephew Chris Ferri, the former owner of a tavern on Barboro Alley across from the famous Peabody Hotel. A quiet place, it specialized in cocktails and whiskey for a local crowd.
I’m proud of him for what he’s accomplishing. And It also appears that Chris is carrying on a family tradition.
His great-grandfather, Pasquale, opened a brewery in New York after emigrating from Italy with his brothers. One of them later returned to their hometown of Accettura, bought some real estate and opened a bar.
When I visited Memphis, I arrived eager to see Chris and share this dose of family history. More self-serving, I also wanted his thoughts on the best things for me to do in Memphis.
Chris has spent most of his life in Memphis and was a font of knowledge on what to do. Here are his picks for the best things to do in Memphis for a weekend or long weekend.
Hopefully, you’ll enjoy them as much as I did.
A Top Place for All Americans: National Civil Rights Museum
For many, this is the most important museum in Memphis. It is in the Lorraine Motel, the place of Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination and is an incredibly poignant place.
For me, it was the best things to do in Memphis with Chris since it’s more than a museum, it’s an experience that features artifacts and multimedia presentations on the civil rights movement. You’ll also find oral histories, films, listening posts and interactive media that take you through five centuries of history.
Exhibits include a bus ridden by Freedom Riders, and “Slavery and a Culture of Resistance.” The latter exhibit is set in a round room and is also illuminated with maps and information about the Atlantic slave trade.
There are first-person accounts of life under Jim Crow laws. Surprisingly, you can listen to the altercation between a transit system worker in Montgomery and Rosa Parks. The final exhibit is in MLK’s Lorraine Motel room, where he spent his last hours.
As you might expect, you should plan to spend several hours here.
Slave Haven Underground Railroad Museum – A Must Stop in Memphis
After hearing of this museum a few years ago, Chris told me he was amazed when he visited it. I was also. It’s a remarkable place, one of the best things to do in Memphis because you learn how the Underground Railroad worked, which will likely shock you.
It’s the original house of Jacob Burkle, a German immigrant who operated a way station on the Underground Railroad. From his house, Burkle secretly ferried slaves up the Mississippi to freedom in Canada.
“The Mississippi River was the real Underground Railroad,” our docent/guide Elaine Turner told us.
In addition to her work at the museum and at Heritage Tours, Turner is an amazing storyteller. As we walked through the house, she brought everything to life while discussing the history of the house. In the cellar we were also amazed how people could live in such a confined space, hidden from outsiders.
By all means, ensure that Slave Haven is one of your “don’t miss” places in Memphis.
Dyer’s Burgers
“I first visited Dyer’s 30 years ago,” Chris said. “Been a favorite ever since.”
Dyer’s is a burger cafe on Beale Street founded by the late Elmer “Doc” Dyer in 1912. The flavor of its unique burgers is the result of a secret cooking process.
The process, it turns out, is deep-frying in grease, which is strained every day. Hence Dyer’s motto: “Have you had your vitamin ’G’ today?” (In case you’re wondering, it is the same grease they’ve been using since 1912.)
For those adverse to burgers, it also serves hot dogs, chicken tenders, and baloney sandwiches.
Of course, Dyer’s has its devotees. Playboy once named it one of the 10-best burgers in America. Esquire listed it in its “60 Things Worth Shortening Your Life For.” It’s one of the fun things to do in Memphis.
Memphis Rock ‘n Soul Museum
The Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum is one-of-a-kind. It’s the one museum that lauds only Memphis musicians and Memphis’s music history. The Smithsonian Institution developed the exhibition, and the museum showcases some exhibits from the Smithsonian’s collection. It’s one of the best things to do in Memphis, especially if you love rock ‘n roll.
What’s great about the museum is its focus on musicians from all socio-economic and racial backgrounds. It’s a fun, comprehensive and educational exhibit.
Just the right size, you’ll find it on Beale Street, the home of the Blues, near the FedEx Forum. The museum also provides audio guides and maps of historic Beale Street. There are free hourly shuttles from the museum to Graceland and Sun Studio.
Sun Studio
Memphis, Tennessee may be a town built on cotton, but if you visit you better like music and barbeque. Especially music.
And any lover of music looking for things to do Memphis must visit Sun Studio. This is where rock ‘n roll was born in a former upholstery shop .
Sun Studio shot to fame after an unknown 18-year-old Elvis Presley walked in one day and recorded his first record. The Studio also attracted many others including Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis and countless other legendary stars. Pay a visit, and you can stand in the same spot each of them did while recording.
Now a National Historic Landmark, its tour is interesting and nostalgic, especially the outtakes from some recording sessions.
It’s a bit far from the downtown Beale Street area, but there’s a shuttle from the Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.
A Don’t Miss – Stax Museum of American Soul Music
Stax Records is one of the most successful soul music labels ever. In fact, with artists including Carla Thomas, Isaac Hayes, Booker T. and The MGs, Rufus Thomas, William Bell and Otis Redding, it is second only to Motown in sales. It’s one of the don’t miss things to do in Memphis if you visit for a long weekend or a day.
In the southeast area of Memphis, the museum is on the site of the original Stax Records studio. It’s a fascinating museum with more than 2,000 exhibits, including films and galleries. One of the more surprising things here is Isaac Hayes’s 1972 Cadillac Eldorado, part of a Stax renegotiation deal. It has 24-carat gold exterior trim, a TV, refrigerator, and minibar.
It’s a captivating museum that even has a dance floor for visitors.
Mud Island River Walk
Chris raved about Mud Island, and once there I could see why.
Mud Island is a scale model of the Lower Mississippi River from its confluence with the Ohio River at Cairo, Illinois south to the Gulf of Mexico, a distance of nearly 1,000 miles. The river walk, as it’s called, is almost a half-mile in length.
A replica of the river, it was designed using Corps of Engineers survey and navigational charts. It’s an entertaining and educational recreation that’s done in incredible detail, allowing you to see the river like never before. It’s one of the offbeat but interesting things to do in Memphis.
“30 years ago I went to it and thought it was a great exhibit,” Chris told me. “You get to walk the length of the Mississippi River and see the towns inlaid in brass in the concrete. It really gives you a good understanding of the scope of the river.”
The Mud Island Museum (currently closed until 2022), complete with a full-scale replica steamboat, presents the history of the Mississippi River valley. The complex also has restaurants and an amphitheater.
A Must-See in Memphis: Elvis’s Graceland
Elvis Presley’s home, Graceland, is the best-known tourist site in Memphis, if not all of Tennessee. Incredibly, although Chris has lived in Memphis 34 years, he has never visited Graceland. I remedied that.
On 13+ acres about 9 miles from downtown, it’s a marvelously kitschy homage to the “King of Rock ‘n Roll.” Astoundingly, it’s one of the most-visited private homes in America. Elvis’s grave, along with those of other family members is on the property. A visit here is definitely one of the things to do in Memphis.
The once-quiet property has morphed into a huge complex. There’s the “Elvis The Entertainer Career Museum” with an extensive collection of personal memorabilia. And the Presley Motors Automobile Museum with his Pink Cadillac, Stutz Blackhawk, 1956 Cadillac Eldorado, Dino Ferrari, and more.
You can walk through the “Lisa Marie,” Elvis’s plane with a private bedroom, gold-plated seat belts, and 24-karat gold-flecked sinks. And eat in Vernon’s Smokehouse or Gladys’ Diner, two restaurants on the premises.
If you really want to do Graceland right, you can also stay at its four-star Guest House. And, as you might imagine, there’s the ubiquitous gift shop with the largest collection of Elvis memorabilia in the world.
None of this comes cheaply. Prices range from $46.50 for children 5-10 years (it includes a mansion tour, exhibits showcasing Elvis’ career, his automobiles, his wardrobe, his gold records, his custom jets,etc.) to $240 per person for an Inside the Graceland Archives UVIP Tour. The latter includes a meal at Vernon’s.
Enjoy Really Great Barbecue at Central BBQ
Chris took me to Central BBQ since it’s one of his favorites. It’s now mine as well. Don’t miss it for a weekend lunch or dinner or any other meal during the day. Having lunch or dinner at Central BBQ is one of the things to do in Memphis.
Inside it’s loud and colorful with people at tables attacking piles of slow-smoked, Memphis-style ribs and pork. According to the menu, Central rubs the ribs with a special “rib rub”, marinates them overnight and slow-smokes them to perfection. You can get them wet or dry, or half and half. They also serve hot wings, brisket, chicken and turkey among other things.
Out back on the patio, a band plays for those who want some entertainment. It’s all just laid-back Memphis with really great barbecue and cold beer.
Looking for Things to Do in Memphis? Party on Beale Street
Memphis is a very laid-back city. That is except Beale Street, which is anything but laid-back and quiet.
Beale is the beating heart of Memphis, a place of bars and barbecue, neon and the blues. It is where the blues were born and where many well-known musicians – including B.B. King and Isaac Hayes – got their start.
As you’d expect, like Bourbon Street in New Orleans it is quite raucous at times. That’s especially true at night and on the weekends when the beat picks up dramatically as live music blares from countless bars and crowds clog the street. Spending an evening or night here is one of the top things to do in Memphis.
It’s rather tame during the day, with shops selling memorabilia and clubs luring customers in for lunch and a drink. Later in the day, you’ll see the Beale Street Flippers, an acrobatic group seen on America’s Got Talent. Just stay out of their way as they do their multiple flips down the center of the street.
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A Bit Quacky But a Fun Photo-Op
Oddly enough, for many people seeing the Peabody Hotel’s famous ducks is one of the most popular things to do in Memphis.
At 11 a.m. every day five mallards waddle into the lobby and jump into the Peabody lobby fountain. Later, at 5 p.m., they head back to the elevator for the ride up to their rooftop Royal Duck Palace. Each time they’re accompanied by the tune of John Philip Sousa’s King Cotton March.
It’s a tradition dating back to 1933 when the hotel’s GM and a friend returned from a hunting trip. After imbibing a little too much sippin’ whiskey, they decided to put their live decoys in the fountain. The reaction among guests was greatly enthusiastic and now continues, more than 80 years later.
As you might expect, the hotel does attract a small crowd for this quacky event. It’s best to get a seat along the red carpet about an hour early. There’s also a good view from the second-floor lobby balcony.
And in case you’re wondering, Duck a l’Orange is never on the menu at any of the hotel’s restaurants.
Lorne Richardson says
The closest I came to Memphis the last time was Tupelo, Miss.
The previous time was driving to Vicksburg,Miss. Heard Mark Cohn sing his song “I’ve been walking in Memphis” when he opened for Bonnie Raitt. Always had a history as being a tough town but with a lot of grit and the meeting of music genres. Will make it there one day.
Jim Ferri says
I went to Tupelo on my way up to Memphis. Had to see Elvis’s birthplace, even though it’s quite kitschy. Glad I sent, though, since it’s so close toe Memphis. Memphis is a great place to visit.
Devin says
Memphis is super boring and full of crime..
What’s here to visit..
Ronn says
You must be from Chicago.
Dana fiveash says
You got that right
Joe Hardaway says
Really? A lot of tourists and national publications don’t feel that way.
Joe Hardaway says
No one wants to hear your opinion.. do you live here? Why put your own city down? Who’s making you live here. We’re one of the top tourist attractions in the country.. they’re is crime everywhere.. some people are always negative.
Ronn says
I will be in Memphis on 3/3/21 for vacation music and BBQ cant wait.
Thomas Richards says
Hey, Chris!
Congratulations! Your bar sounds like a lot of fun, will look forward to sampling the wares. Memphis has always been on our weekend list and this might just clinch a visit.
Tom
Stan McGahey says
For anyone interested in casino gambling and concerts, Tunica, MS, would be an interesting side-trip from Memphis. It’s less than an hour south and close to the Mississippi River.
Pat says
Jim, I really enjoyed this article and pix of you and Chris having a great time. We have never been to Memphis and hope to get there sometime and press Chris into tour guide service as you did!
Jim Ferri says
Hi Pat, you really should visit Memphis. It’s a great place for a long weekend trip. And that music stirs up plenty of good memories too!
Kim Watkins says
I love the local perspective of this article. It’s crazy how much you and Chris look alike!
Jim Ferri says
I saw the similarity also. I’m glad you liked it.
Chris Ferri says
Come one come all. We will have a great time.
Wini says
Was there many years ago with Bob — went to Graceland & Beal Street. Did not know there are so many other places. Will have to return some day and look up Chris for help. Great to see you and Chris together.
Jim Ferri says
Thanks Wini. There’s a lot to do in Memphis beyond Graceland and Beale Street. And go hit Chris up for a drink or two.
Debbra Dunning Brouillette says
Memphis is one of my favorite cities…and not just because I’m a huge Elvis fan! You hit many of the highlights, for sure! I am always ready to go back to Memphis to explore a few more of its hidden treasures. Next time I will seek out your nephews’ bar!
Jim Ferri says
Go to Belle Tavern – it’s a great place and Chris is a great guy. Just up the alley in front of the Peabody.
Kimberly Rawls says
Born and raised in Memphis, currently reside in Nashville. Ive visited a few of these places and now I will go down your list to see the rest when I visit home. Great article.
Jim Ferri says
Thank you Kimberly!
Rick danzig says
I do not like memphis tennessee because it is boarding here and there is nothing to do here
Kelly says
Lol. Memphis is boarding?
I think you must have meant “boring”, which anyone with an appreciation of American history would argue that.
Then again, it’s quite possible that you just lack the education needed to understand how special this city really is. I’m a proud Memphian, and I feel sorry you can’t find anything here to occupy your time.
Mac says
Memphis has a new Convention Center & is getting a 250′ Italian Big Wheel Boardwalk downtown with dozens of new mix-retail, music venues, restaurants, hotels.
Connie says
How has covid affected Beale Street? Masks required?
Stephen cotton says
Ive lived in memphis for 27yrs it is a terrible place full of violent crime it is extremely boring the food is disgusting and it is extremely racially divided the school system is awlful im not lying why would i its truly a vile place i never left because of bad health the one good thing about it is houes are very cheap and its cheap to live here
Joe Hardaway says
I have lived in Memphis 53 years and I disagree with you.. there is crime and racism but that’s everywhere in the United States. Memphis is a top tourist destination according to USA Today and many top publications. The BBQ, the wings, and cuisine are some of the best in the country.. Memphis is neither vile or terrible.. keep your negative comments to yourself and stop trying to discourage people from visiting because you don’t like the city you live in. Everyone does not agree with you.. thank God
Rebecca says
I have lived in Memphis all my life and like all cities it has its good and bad. Having said that I look at my cup full and over flowing here. We have the most friendly helpful people all done with a smile! But I must say if you want real Memphis Bar-B-Que you have to go to Tops Bar-B-Que. Its hands down the best! If you want old school history you must book a tour at Elmwood Cemetery. They give a real historical lesson about our beginnings. You wont be disappointed. Dont forget to stop by discount souvenir shop next to Sun Studio’s after you vist Sun of course. Hope yall come and stay a while. Come get yall some southern hospitality and a big ol glass of sweet tea!
Not guilty says
Beware of the “Bad Trap;” to be a resident at 201 poplar is no joke, to visit the union mission is no fun, and to walk those streets for years with no escape was a nightmare.
A M says
I live here in Memphis, there is absolutely nothing here to see. I have been to Graceland (boring & very gaudy), never want to go back. I never have visited the Lorraine Hotel Museum, have no desire. Elmwood is great, but been there done that. Would not recommend anyone to visit Memphis.
Jim Ferri says
Thank you for your opinion Ann.
Jim
Jan says
Great article! It might be good to update your information about the mud Island River Park. You can still go down and re-view the replica of the river, which is great. . But the museum with the replica of the steam riverboat is not in use . There is chatter about renovation and some has been done already.
Jim Ferri says
Hi Jan,
Thanks for bringing us all up to date about Mud Island. I just hope they don’t change too much.
Jim
Michelle Walters says
I was born in 1955 and raised in Memphis..I have avoided returning for many years because the places I cared about are gone..torn down by the city years ago to create a tourist Beale Street. The old fruit stand once on the corner of Main and Beale..my cousin’s men’s store on the old Beale, and numerous businesses once owned by immigrants who became the backbone of Memphis….it is sad….history removed.
Jim Ferri says
Hi Michelle,
I understand what you mean as to how places change. But I always have my memories of all the places I’ve been.
Jim
Stephanie says
I disagree with the negative comments. I took my mom and my son to Memphis on fall break. We saw the duck March, duck palace at the Peabody, Graceland, Bass Pro Observation Deck, Mud Island (my son was actually able to climb to the middle of the H in the Memphis sign), Beale Street, Lorraine Motel, and Stax. We had tons of fun and felt completely safe. There is tons of police presence.
Jim Ferri says
Thank you Stephanie. I also felt safe. But I’m certain that almost everywhere it’s different if your a resident or a visitor.
Jim
Tam says
The Memphis Zoo is the best. Don’t miss that!
Jim Ferri says
Thank you Tam.
Jim Ferri says
Thank you Tam!
Jim
Tiana Posner says
I randomly picked this article to see what you thought….I live in Memphis. And lo, and behold, your picture of Central BBQ (best bbq salad EVER) has my dad, a long time Memphis musician, playing in the background! Lol. You did good. All the picks are really good.
Jim Ferri says
Thank you Tiana. I’m glad I was able to immortalize your Dad!
Jim
Joe Hardaway says
I’m glad tourists don’t listen to some of the people that live here in Memphis. We’re still one of the top tourist destinations in the U.S. I’m not a fan of Graceland but it’s the 2nd most visited house in the country behind only the White House. Because you don’t want to visit some of the best sites in Memphis don’t try to discourage others.
Lisa says
I loved this!! Agree with every one, and yes, next time visit the zoo! We lived in Memphis for almost 20 years, just recently moved for our business, but I get back as often as I can. We support the National Civil Rights Museum and have attended the Freedom Awards many times. Next time we’re back in town I’ll be sure to find Chris to shake his hand. Thank you!
Jim Ferri says
Thank you Lisa! I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Jim
Patrick Beck says
Rendezvous is the best BBQ in Memphis. Central BBQ is good, but Rendezvous is the best by far. Of course, you can always eat BBQ more than once.
Jim Ferri says
Patrick – I’m with you. The more BBQ, the better!
Jim